TAMIYA 300058610-1:10 RC Aqroshot Vehicle (DT-03T)

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Bank holiday on Monday, so I don’t expect it to arrive until later next week, but here what I have on the way: Still, I could still press on, I've put bearings in the gearbox (metal shielded) and rubber shielded on the outdrives which is my norm now; ESC: This is the connection between the radio system and the motor. You have several choices. The standard Tamiya unit is currently unavailable due to the chip shortage, so Tamiya are offering a choice of a Tamiya Hobbywing or Carson Dragster (Tamiya Germany) units. Where a model number is shown (e.g. 20 or 15) that is the motor capacity of the unit - the lower the number, the more powerful a motor you can install later. All work with the motor in the kit.

Anyway, long ramble to get to the question: what are your opinions of the Mad Bull? Would be interested to hear people's views and experiences. That doesn't mean it won't still work. Wheel and tire choice for dt03 is something I've been googling around for a couple weeks in anticipation of my build. I'll definitely be trying wheels off my Lunchbox to see if they fit.DT-03T: Hassle-free, Great Performance! The stylish slimline form of this chassis stems from its lightweight yet durable monocoque frame, which features a longitudinally-positioned battery and the R/C equipment along the centerline for excellent balance. The combination of a long 287mm wheelbase and 4-wheel double wishbone suspension married to CVA oil dampers with long arms at a 25-degree attachment angle, allows the model to handle with stability on poor surfaces. The rear-positioned gearbox is sealed to protect from dust and dirt, with the built-in differential gear offering smooth cornering. The platform is intended as an easy-to-get-started model to encourage young drivers to enter the world of R/C. Also, with its choice of only two pinion options, the DT-02 'box is hardly what I'd call flexible in terms of gearing. I would guess this is why the models Tamiya have released on the DT-02/DT-03 platform have all had buggy-diameter wheels/tyres.

The combination of a long 287mm wheelbase and 4-wheel double wishbone suspension married to CVA oil dampers with long arms at a 25-degree attachment angle, Then, to finish the the steering we mount the servo into the nose of the chassis. It goes in upside down. There is an easy access hole under the chassis so the servo saver can be unscrewed thus allowing the servo to be removed without completely disassembling the entire steering setup. I really appreciate this design because it reduces the amount of on/off cycles the ball cups must endure, thus extending their life span. That said, I'm not keen on the big hole in the front of the underside of the chassis. I'm going to have to find something to cover that hole up with. A nice piece of adhesive carbon fiber would be perfect. I'll have to see what I can come up with. Required for completion: 2 Channel Radio System, A Servo, Battery and Charger, Polycarbonate Paint for the Body, Tools for assembly & Tyre Glue for the Tyres. The Amarok shell doesn't really work, the wheelbase is good but it's too wide, the wheels won't steer without touching quite a lot... Length: 425mm, Width: 298mm, Height: 143mm ●Wheelbase: 287mm ●Tread (Front/Rear): 251mm/243mm ●Tire Width/Diameter (Front & Rear): 47/84mm (Front)

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Next up are the steering rods. They are metal shaft with ball cup ends. They're also equal length which should really make for the nicest direct servo steering of any model I've ever built! Also included is a brand new (still wrapped up) Racing Fighter shell with decals and front and rear DT03 buggy wheels again new and never used. All you need to convert to a buggy is some tyres. The rear-positioned gearbox is sealed to protect from dust and dirt, with the built-in differential gear offering smooth cornering.

The Mad Bull looks like a Grasshopper on steroids, a "Monster Grasshopper". Videos look like it's a lot of fun. I actually really like the combo of low slung centre of gravity and chunky no nonsense tyres, contrasting to the somewhat streamlined body.I've fitted the plastic driveshafts for the moment even though they don't engage just to prevent me from losing anything! Once again, rubber shielded bearing to the wheel axles...note also the waterproof esc switch cover which is a nice touch, somewhat lost if I end up fitting a different esc later! While driving it on the street and in the park, the rear wheels spin a lot. Which results in a difficult to control car spinning around as soon as you hit the throttle. Of course it is possible to slowly put on the power, but that's not the way it should be. Running on grass is not possible at all. Probably. Some are bundled with ESCs, some aren't. If it was bundled with an ESC from the factory, it will be the TBLE-02 which is brushless compatible. Some hobby shops put in a different ESC if they are assembling their own bundles, and some ship with no ESC at all. Its intuitive yet tough design allows hassle-free assembly and gives less experienced users the opportunity to get to grips with R/C model composition and construction. Front lower suspension arms used the U pin similar to the WT01 and the front wheels are bearing type as you can see below. The chassis tub is very rigid, I'm not sure how robust it will be in an impact but time will tell, between the shell and wishbones hopefully impacts will be mostly absorbed.