It is worth noting, that bench pins are available in a range of sizes and are sometimes supplied with a clamp, for clamping firmly to a bench.

Why not try our Knew Concept jeweller’s saw frames? These jeweller’s saw frames are easy to use and excellently constructed to suit the user and various precious metals. Our lightweight jeweller’s saw frames provide you with better control and the ease to move and create intricate shapes in your jewellery designs. Perfect for working with metal, wax and stone, this is an all-purpose jewellery making tool that will make cutting and shaping materials much easier. Jeweller’s Piercing SawCooksongold’s adjustable jeweller’s saw frames offer you the ability to successfully saw through metal, leaving a clean, smooth and professional finish. The jeweller’s saws are made for a wide variety of metals, meaning they’re perfect for use as a silversmith saw or on other precious metal bullion. Our wide selection of jeweller’s saw frames vary in size from 3” to 6” to give you more flexibility and movement capabilities with your jewellery making designs.

Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade. Piercing saws have a frame with pinch clamps that will grip the blades; handles are usually wooden like the examples from our range below. The other big distinction is that a jewelers’ saw cuts on the pull stroke, the teeth point towards the handle. You must fit the blade correctly in this orientation. Fitting a bladeThe bench peg should be at mid-chest height when you are sitting comfortably in an upright position. The saw is held (in your dominant hand) with the handle pointing down underneath the bench peg, with the teeth pointing downwards and towards the bench. Your other hand is employed in holding and moving the metal. Remember that the saw cuts on the downward stroke. Keep your wrist and forearm fairly rigid. Bending your arm just at the elbow as you move the saw up and down. Don’t jig up and down furiously in short fast movements. Doing so is very inefficient. Use the whole length of the blade correctly and you will cut much faster. Keep the saw perpendicular and at 90 deg to the metal. You must maintain this posture and the position of your arm. Avoid tilting to the side, which will create inaccurate sloped sides to your piece. If you are following a line or pattern, keep your head in line with your bench peg so you can see the saw blade. As mentioned, use a brush to wipe away dust and filings so that you can see your pattern. When making tight turns, keep the saw moving up and down as you gently rotate the saw. As you change direction, reposition and rotate your piece with your other hand, keeping the saw blade within the bench pegs groove, and the piece fully supported. The jewellers saw is a must-have in the workshop, allowing you to easily cut metal wire and sheet, such as cutting D-shaped wire for making a ring band/bangle or cutting intricate shapes out of metal sheet. Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread). You will also want to consider what the saw is made of. Steel frames tend to be heavier compared to lighter weight metals like aluminium frames so if you plan on doing a lot of sawing you might want to choose a lighter frame for comfort. 4. How you fasten the blade Above. Whilst pushing the frame against the bench peg, tighten the far end to secure the blade. Lubrication